Seeking out Indigenous Experiences: When travelling, my purpose is to seek out authentic experiences in new and different cultures so I can learn and grow. It’s also to support communities and organizations at a grassroots level.
Across Nova Scotia, several Indigenous communities have created immersive travel experiences that do all of the above. They allow travellers and visitors to learn more about their culture and history while inviting visitors to experience it all first-hand.
These tourism initiatives have allowed Indigenous Peoples, like the Mi’kmaq residing in the traditional territory of the L’nu to create impactful experiences that help preserve and celebrate their culture while educating visitors.
READ MORE: Planning a Nova Scotia Road Trip: A One-Week Itinerary
Who are the Mi’kmaq People?
For over 10,000 years, the Mi’kmaq have called Nova Scotia, Canada, and the island of Cape Breton home (as well as most of New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and parts of the Gaspe in Quebec).
Today, there are 13 separate Mi’kmaq communities in the province. They all have a rich history of art, music, dance, language, culture, and history.
Why Are Indigenous Tourism Experiences so Important?
Not only does tourism support those who specialize in art and culture, tourism creates a space for the culture to be taught and passed down from generation to generation – all while sharing it with visitors.
For us visitors, it’s full circle. We gain a better understanding of Indigenous communities and their culture all while supporting those communities.
Is it Mi’kmaq or Mi’kmaw?
Mi’kmaq (mee-gah-mah) is the plural noun form.
E.g “the Mi’kmaq are indigenous to Nova Scotia”
Mi’kmaw (mee-gah-maw) can be used as a singular noun, as an adjective and to describe the language
E.g. “they speak Mi’kmaw”
To avoid errors and confusion, use the word “Mi’kmaq’ when writing in the English language.
4 Indigenous Tourism Experiences in Nova Scotia
Are you looking to connect with Indigenous culture in Nova Scotia?
Here are 4 Indigenous-led tourism experiences to take part in while in Nova Scotia
READ MORE: 10 Unique Attractions in Nova Scotia
1. Visit Membertou Heritage Park and go on the Medicine Walk
The urban community of Membertou is one of five Mi’kmaq communities located on Unama’ki (Cape Breton Island), close to the city of Sydney.
Now You Know: Unama’ki translates to “land of fog.”
A must-stop destination is the Membertou Heritage Park & Membertou Trade & Convention Centre. Built in 2012, the centre hosts a variety of events and conferences.
Visit Membertou Heritage Park
But for travellers and visitors, I specifically recommend stopping in at the Membertou Heritage Park. It houses an indoor exhibit worth checking out. Here you can join a guided tour and listen to the teachings and stories from a member of the Membertou community. I recommend extending your stay at the Heritage Centre and booking a beading workshop. (It’s very affordable at $25 per person). We spent two hours learning the correct sewing techniques to apply the beads to the design and its connection to the community’s heritage
Go on a Medicine Walk
An incredible not-to-miss experience is going on a medicine walk with cultural ambassador David Meuse. He is a wealth of knowledge and so genuine and enthusiastic about sharing his lived experiences.
After being greeted at the Convention Centre, we were off on a driving tour of the community while David shared about the history of his people. Next, we went on a 1.8km medicine walk along a path in the forest. This was my favourite part of the visit.
David introduced us to the natural medicinal practices used by Mi’kmaq ancestors, teaching about the significance of local plants and their healing properties. Dressed in full regalia, he sang, drummed, and included us in his performances.
After the walk, we returned to the centre for the sharing of Luskinikn bread with molasses, jam and tea. We also had the opportunity to learn how to make dreamcatchers.
The community’s deep connection to the land, its oral history, and its focus on healing and education provide a meaningful and insightful experience for visitors. This makes Membertou a unique destination for those looking to understand Indigenous culture and heritage in Nova Scotia.
Where to Eat in Sydney:
Kiju’s Restaurant, Membertou Convention Centre – Lunch at Kiju’s Restaurant provides a taste of local cuisine with dishes like the Four Cent Bread Skillet, honouring traditional roles within the community. I ordered (and recommend) a steaming bowl of chowder. It was flavourful and filling.
The Old Triangle Irish Alehouse, Sydney – For an Irish pub, I was impressed with the seafood options on the menu. Known as the Celtic Heart of the Maritimes, this was one of the best seafood meals of the trip. The Lobster & Scallop Linguine, Lobster Flambe, and Ancient Mariner were delicious. This restaurant is a staple in the province with four locations across Nova Scotia.
Where to Stay in Sydney:
The Simon Hotel in Sydney on Cape Breton Island has incredible views over the water. You’ll want to ask for a west-facing view at this accommodation! If you’re travelling in a group, it’s worth asking for an upgrade to a suite. There’s an on-site restaurant and hot coffee or infused water available in the lobby.
Book a night here.
Must-See in Sydney
When in town, you can’t miss a pit stop at the world’s biggest fiddle found on display at the Port of Sydney. I recommend taking a 900-metre walk south along the waterfront boardwalk for a sunset view. Don’t miss an opportunity to snap a photo with the “Sydney” sign.
2. Take a Tour of Goat Island with Eskasoni Cultural Journeys
At 4,000 members strong, Eskasoni is the largest Mi’kmaq community in the world. Located on Cape Breton Island, their public tour on the tiny and walkable Goat Island is excellent. The walking loop on the island is only 2.4 kilometres long.
Our guide from Eskasoni Cultural Journeys took us to different stops along the way where we met several community members. Each one shared different stories and teachings with us. We learned about hunting and fishing techniques and watched a drumming and dance performance, including the ko’jua dance. We learned the very beginning steps of weaving a basket and were able to take part in a smudging ceremony.
Why is it called Goat Island?
There were goats on Goat Island in the 1940s. But as goats do, they ate everything on the island – including crops and laundry.
Interesting Fact: Eskasoni is home to the only Mi’kmaq immersion school. Keeping their language alive is important to the community.
3. Visit the 40-Foot-tall Statue ‘Glooscap’ at Millbrook Cultural & Heritage Centre
Roadside attractions don’t get more impressive than the 40-foot-tall statue named Glooscap. He was originally created out of a bolt of lightning. You can find the statue on-site at Millbrook Cultural & Heritage Centre near Truro, Nova Scotia. Glooscap is the hero of Mi’kmaq creation stories which tell of Mi’kmaw culture. The statue is believed to be the tallest human-like statue in Canada and was built to be as tall as the Bay of Fundy tidal changes.
But you can’t stop to snap a selfie with Glooscap without first taking time to visit Millbrook Cultural and Heritage Centre. A moving 18-minute-long video presentation shares the challenges the Mi’kmaq people have and continue to overcome. The centre is home to Mi’kmaq artifacts more than 7,500 years old. Here, you can explore the various exhibits that share the language, history, and traditions of the Mi’kmaq. You can also learn to play Waltes, a traditional Mi’kmaw game played with bone or antler dice and a hardwood bowl.
On display in the centre of the building is a stunning Mi’kmaq regalia that was repatriated to the heritage centre thanks to the efforts of manager and senior heritage interpreter Heather Stevens. Behind a glass display is a man’s beaded ceremonial robe alongside moccasins, leggings, and a pouch. The regalia is over 130 years old. You can follow the entire journey in a 50-part series that recounts Heather’s repatriation of the regalia.
What to See In Truro
A must-stop in Truro is an outdoor visit to Victoria Park. This forested woodland descends into a natural gorge and follows a small creek to several waterfalls and viewpoints. Water levels are influenced by seasonality.
A particularly fun challenge is to climb the 175 steps up “Jacob’s Ladder.”
Where to Stay in Truro
Book in for the ultimate glamping experience in a shipping container or yurt at Seek Wilderness Accommodation. We stayed in the double-stacked Hemlock Shipping Container. It has two bedrooms, a kitchenette, a reading nook, and a fire pit, and hot tub outside. There’s also a “rooftop” patio where you can enjoy a cup of coffee in the morning.
4. Walk Barefoot Amongst Several-Hundred-Year-Old Rock Petroglyphs in Kejimkujik National Park
Kejimkujik is the only inland national park in Atlantic Canada. It’s also the only park to be designated a national historic site. Visitors come to hike in old-growth forests, paddle on the lakes, and connect with nature and history.
Note: It’s important not to confuse Kejimkujik Inland Park with Kejimkujik Seaside which is 100 kilometres away on the coast near Port Joli.
A highlight of our entire trip was a guided visit to see the 18th-century Mi’kmaq petroglyphs.
Please note: you can only access this protected area with a Parks Interpreter. But it’s worth it as you’ll learn so much about Mi’kmaw culture and their 5000-year-long history here. Plus, you get to walk barefoot amongst these amazing rock carvings. (Removing your shoes helps protect the rock and the petroglyphs).
There are more than 500 petroglyphs within the park. They range from drawings of sailboats and canoes to people and animals.
What Else to Do in Kejimkujik National Park
There are so many incredible experiences within the park including hiking and paddling and learning more through Parks Canada’s interpretive programming.
Four other experiences worth highlighting in Kejimkujik National Park include:
1. A Dark Sky Paddle in an 18-Person Canoe
Yes, you read that right: go for a nighttime paddle with 18 other people in one giant canoe.
Kejimkujik is the only dark-sky preserve in Nova Scotia. This makes access to the stars and night skies a true privilege.
While you’re out on the water you’ll watch the sunset on the horizon as the stars slowly emerge. The best part was listening to Mi’kmaw legends and stories and learning more about the world between worlds.
2. Visit the Mi’kmaw Encampment
At the Wejisqalia’ti’k Encampment, a Parks Canada cultural guide shares personal and cultural stories.
This is a great opportunity to be curious and ask questions while getting a hands-on experience. This replica site includes a traditional wigwam set up with animal pelts you can touch. There are also bone and antler tools and toys you can try out.
3. Watch a Birch Bark Canoe Being Built
If you time it right, you might get to experience first-hand what it takes to create a birch bark canoe. Master builder Todd Labrador is self-taught and has built nearly two dozen canoes throughout his career. When he’s working in the park, you can watch a demonstration at the Birch Bark Canoe Shop at the south edge of Merrymakedge Beach.
Where to Stay in Kejimkujik
There are a variety of excellent camping and glamping accommodations to enjoy within the park. Campsites are spread out and set within the forest. If tenting isn’t for you, consider booking a Parks Canada O’Tentik, a rustic cabin, a yurt, or the tear-drop-shaped Oasis for a truly unique experience.
BYO sleeping and cooking gear.
Where to Eat in Kejimkujik
Even though the park is inland, you can still get fresh seafood at Lakeview Café and Eatery. We stopped by for lunch and dinner and enjoyed milkshakes, lobster rolls, and the tasty Keji burger.
READ MORE: Planning a Nova Scotia Road Trip: A One-Week Itinerary
Indigenous Experiences in Nova Scotia
Exploring Indigenous experiences in Nova Scotia offers an incredible opportunity to connect with the Mi’kmaq culture while supporting local communities.
Experiences like the medicine walk in Membertou, the Goat Island tour with Eskasoni Cultural Journeys, and the chance to see ancient petroglyphs at Kejimkujik National Park are three unique insights into the Indigenous way of life.
These authentic encounters not only foster understanding but also contribute to the preservation of Indigenous cultural heritage for future generations.
As a traveller, embracing these experiences enhances our travels and deepens our appreciation for the diverse tapestry of cultures in Canada.
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It was an honour to have Ashlyn visit Unama’ki and our communities here.
Wela’liek Ashlyn ☀️
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and creating such a wonderful experience for Lindsay and I!